St Petersburg: The Peterhof Gardens,
Story by Paul Hughes, 2019
The Peterhof Gardens are probably one of the best examples of how the first Russian Tsar Peter the Great wanted to both modernise and westernise Russia while demonstrating to the world his great power ("Peterhof" is German for “Peter’s Court”).
However, apart from the size and imagination of the Peterhof palace and gardens complex, it is the sheer brilliance and ingenuity of the design and construction that make it so awe-inspiring.
The Tsar had already begun the construction of Russia’s new capital at St Petersburg after successfully capturing Swedish lands on the east coast, giving Russia access to the Baltic Sea through the Neva River and the Gulf of Finland.
The Swedish Empire then surrendered its claim to the Baltic Sea in the Treaty of Nystad at the end of the Great Northern War in 1721, boosting Russia’s rise as a world power.
The waters close to St Petersburg were shallow and the island of Kotlin and its fortress Kronstadt northeast of the city became a perfect a gateway and commercial harbour.
Peter the Great travelled extensively, in particular to France where he was inspired by the Palace of Versailles created by Louis XIV. While he originally planned the estate to be a holiday retreat, he decided to build a network of palaces and gardens that would be renowned throughout the world.
The main palace is built on the top of a 16-metre high bluff about 100 metres from the Neva River. A wide Sea Channel was built from the ocean to the foot of the bluff leading to the palace, with gold mooring rings still visible along the channel facade where visitors would tie their dinghies.
The Peterhof Gardens are probably one of the best examples of how the first Russian Tsar Peter the Great wanted to both modernise and westernise Russia while demonstrating to the world his great power ("Peterhof" is German for “Peter’s Court”).
However, apart from the size and imagination of the Peterhof palace and gardens complex, it is the sheer brilliance and ingenuity of the design and construction that make it so awe-inspiring.
The Tsar had already begun the construction of Russia’s new capital at St Petersburg after successfully capturing Swedish lands on the east coast, giving Russia access to the Baltic Sea through the Neva River and the Gulf of Finland.
The Swedish Empire then surrendered its claim to the Baltic Sea in the Treaty of Nystad at the end of the Great Northern War in 1721, boosting Russia’s rise as a world power.
The waters close to St Petersburg were shallow and the island of Kotlin and its fortress Kronstadt northeast of the city became a perfect a gateway and commercial harbour.
Peter the Great travelled extensively, in particular to France where he was inspired by the Palace of Versailles created by Louis XIV. While he originally planned the estate to be a holiday retreat, he decided to build a network of palaces and gardens that would be renowned throughout the world.
The main palace is built on the top of a 16-metre high bluff about 100 metres from the Neva River. A wide Sea Channel was built from the ocean to the foot of the bluff leading to the palace, with gold mooring rings still visible along the channel facade where visitors would tie their dinghies.
Above: Looking from one of the sea channel bridges towards the palace and main fountain then looking in the opposite direction to where the channel meets the Baltic Sea.
One of the features of the gardens are the enormous number of gold fountains lavishly spread throughout the complex, constantly throwing tonnes or water into the air which is not recirculated but waters the gardens or flows into the Neva River.
I was puzzled by the design concept, as the fountains seemed to have an endless supply of water that flow away to the river, yet operate mainly without pumps.
This was the challenge facing the Tsar’s designers until they found an area above the upper gardens that was fed by natural springs. They built a network of reservoirs, and underground aqueducts that release a constant volume of water down to the gardens, then designed systems to supply the exact amount of water to make the fountains operate as required.
The difference in elevation creates enough pressure to drive most of the fountains of the Lower Gardens, including the Grand Cascade. The Samson Fountain is supplied by a special aqueduct that provides water and pressure from other reservoirs higher in the mountains some four kilometres away.
It was only then that they could design gardens and features without limitation and the outcome is spectacular on a hugely grand scale.
During the following decades Peter the Great continued to expand the Peterhof palaces and gardens, including expanding the main palace for Elizabeth of Russia. The complex is recognised as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
I was puzzled by the design concept, as the fountains seemed to have an endless supply of water that flow away to the river, yet operate mainly without pumps.
This was the challenge facing the Tsar’s designers until they found an area above the upper gardens that was fed by natural springs. They built a network of reservoirs, and underground aqueducts that release a constant volume of water down to the gardens, then designed systems to supply the exact amount of water to make the fountains operate as required.
The difference in elevation creates enough pressure to drive most of the fountains of the Lower Gardens, including the Grand Cascade. The Samson Fountain is supplied by a special aqueduct that provides water and pressure from other reservoirs higher in the mountains some four kilometres away.
It was only then that they could design gardens and features without limitation and the outcome is spectacular on a hugely grand scale.
During the following decades Peter the Great continued to expand the Peterhof palaces and gardens, including expanding the main palace for Elizabeth of Russia. The complex is recognised as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
The 16-metre high bluff in front of the palace is the dominant natural feature of Peterhof, with the Lower Gardens stretching more than 200 metres east to west and all the way to the river. Most of the fountains are in this area, as well as a number of smaller palaces and outbuildings. Alexander Park on the east side of the Lower Gardens was created later and contains many 19th Century Gothic Revival structures.
The Grand Palace overlooks the whole complex and behind the palace lie the smaller Upper Gardens.
The main features of the whole gardens are the Grand Cascade and Samson Fountain, which are a sight one would normally only read about in fairytales.
Due to his fascination with Louis XIV, Peter had the Grand Cascade modelled on a fountain he saw at Louis’ Chateau de Marly, but enriched it with more gold!
A two-storey artificial grotto sits in the centre of the cascade and contained a general history of the fountain. Beware - there is a table of artificial fruit that is a replica of one that Peter had built; however, like the Mannerist gardens that are still popular in Germany, it is rigged so jets of water soak visitors if they reach for the fruit! A hidden corridor in the grotto connects it with the palace above.
The 64 fountains of the Grande Cascade sit below and on either side of the grotto, with the waters flowing into a pool that flows into the Sea Channel, which is also lined with fountains.
The Grand Palace overlooks the whole complex and behind the palace lie the smaller Upper Gardens.
The main features of the whole gardens are the Grand Cascade and Samson Fountain, which are a sight one would normally only read about in fairytales.
Due to his fascination with Louis XIV, Peter had the Grand Cascade modelled on a fountain he saw at Louis’ Chateau de Marly, but enriched it with more gold!
A two-storey artificial grotto sits in the centre of the cascade and contained a general history of the fountain. Beware - there is a table of artificial fruit that is a replica of one that Peter had built; however, like the Mannerist gardens that are still popular in Germany, it is rigged so jets of water soak visitors if they reach for the fruit! A hidden corridor in the grotto connects it with the palace above.
The 64 fountains of the Grande Cascade sit below and on either side of the grotto, with the waters flowing into a pool that flows into the Sea Channel, which is also lined with fountains.
The large Samson Fountain was erected in the pool showing Samson ripping open the jaws of a lion, which many believe depicts the story from the Bible. However, the lion is a key part of Sweden’s coat of arms and the fountain was designed to represent Russia’s victory over Sweden in the Great Northern War - and the fact that a key victory in that war was on St Sampson’s Day!
The lion’s mouth shoots a vertical stream of water 20-metres into the air, making a spectacular display. Although the fountain was looted by the invading German army during the Second World war, a replica of the statue was reinstalled in 1947.
The most prominently positioned fountains of Peterhof are the 'Adam' and 'Eve' fountains (below), placed symmetrically on either side of the Sea Channel, each at the conjunction of eight paths.
The lion’s mouth shoots a vertical stream of water 20-metres into the air, making a spectacular display. Although the fountain was looted by the invading German army during the Second World war, a replica of the statue was reinstalled in 1947.
The most prominently positioned fountains of Peterhof are the 'Adam' and 'Eve' fountains (below), placed symmetrically on either side of the Sea Channel, each at the conjunction of eight paths.
As we wandered down the steps to the base of the fountain we were bombarded with a constant stream of gasps of awe and amazement from the hundreds of visitors, which continued as we discovered more and more features around every turn as we wandered through the garden areas.
The Lower Gardens were designed in the expansive style of the French formal gardens of the 17th century, similar to what might be seen in movies like The Three Musketeers. Although somewhat overgrown in places, formal clipping of the gardens has resumed in recent times and sections are already restored to their original appearance.
As if not satisfied with the spectacular main fountains, there are many unique fountains also spread throughout the lower garden that generate new surprises as they are discovered. One such impressive piece was The Sun Fountain - water jets radiate from the edges of a disc creating the concept of rays emanating from the sun, with the whole structure rotating so that the direction “The Sun” faces is constantly changing.
The Lower Gardens were designed in the expansive style of the French formal gardens of the 17th century, similar to what might be seen in movies like The Three Musketeers. Although somewhat overgrown in places, formal clipping of the gardens has resumed in recent times and sections are already restored to their original appearance.
As if not satisfied with the spectacular main fountains, there are many unique fountains also spread throughout the lower garden that generate new surprises as they are discovered. One such impressive piece was The Sun Fountain - water jets radiate from the edges of a disc creating the concept of rays emanating from the sun, with the whole structure rotating so that the direction “The Sun” faces is constantly changing.
The Peterhof Gardens just keep giving. On the western side of the Grand Palace is the Golden Mountain, which is decorated with marble statues that are in stark contrast to the golden figures of the Grand Cascade. Then, on the opposite eastern side is Chess Mountain, a wide area surfaced in black and white tiles, like a chessboard.
The Grand Palace is the largest Peterhof palace and dominates the landscape when viewed from the Upper or Lower Gardens. However, looks can be deceptive as, being quite narrow and containing only 30 rooms, it is relatively small so far as Russia’s palaces are concerned.
The Grand Palace is the largest Peterhof palace and dominates the landscape when viewed from the Upper or Lower Gardens. However, looks can be deceptive as, being quite narrow and containing only 30 rooms, it is relatively small so far as Russia’s palaces are concerned.
While we didn’t have time to go inside, we were told that some of the rooms are both remarkable and controversial. The Chesma Hall is decorated with 12 large paintings supposedly depicting a significant naval victory during the Russian war against Turkey, known as the Battle of Chesma, They were painted by German artist Jacob Philipp Hackert and, because he had never seen a battle, his first outlines were criticised for not realistically showing exploding ships.
Apparently Catherine II exploded a frigate in the harbour in Livorno, Italy in front of him to ensure he made them more realistic!
Among the other rooms of note is the Picture Hall (below), whose walls are covered by a series of 368 paintings purchased in 1764 from the widow of the Italian artist Pietro Antonio Rotari from Verona, who died in St. Petersburg. Most of the paintings depict women of various ages and appearance dressed in the different clothes of the era. A feature of the exhibition is, despite how different the women look, they are mostly drawn from a single model!
Apparently Catherine II exploded a frigate in the harbour in Livorno, Italy in front of him to ensure he made them more realistic!
Among the other rooms of note is the Picture Hall (below), whose walls are covered by a series of 368 paintings purchased in 1764 from the widow of the Italian artist Pietro Antonio Rotari from Verona, who died in St. Petersburg. Most of the paintings depict women of various ages and appearance dressed in the different clothes of the era. A feature of the exhibition is, despite how different the women look, they are mostly drawn from a single model!
See more stories on St Petersburg on other pages.
St Petersburg: Home of the Tsars
St Petersburg: The Winter Palace
St Petersburg and Monplaisir Palace
St Petersburg: Homes of the Tsars
The Spectacular Neva River, St Petersburg
St Petersburg: The Winter Palace (or Palaces)
St Petersburg: The Museum of Russia and Summer Palace
St Petersburg: Home of the Tsars
St Petersburg: The Winter Palace
St Petersburg and Monplaisir Palace
St Petersburg: Homes of the Tsars
The Spectacular Neva River, St Petersburg
St Petersburg: The Winter Palace (or Palaces)
St Petersburg: The Museum of Russia and Summer Palace